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Alterations By Design

Summary:

27 November 1973

Notes:

Lucille

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Vera Holcomb had already decided that Lucille Robinson was not an especially difficult woman by the time she concluded that Lucille Robinson was an exceptionally difficult body. The distinction mattered to her because she had spent enough years repairing clothing and field equipment to know that people were often blamed for shapes manufacturers had never bothered to imagine. Lucille arrived at the workroom carrying a sleeping bag under one arm and a pair of trouser braces folded over the other, ducked automatically beneath the doorframe, and set both items on Vera's cutting table without ceremony. She said the bag was too short unless she slept with her knees bent and the braces had been lengthened once already, but the adjustment had changed the way the trousers pulled when she crouched. Vera listened, looked from the equipment to the woman standing beside it, and said, "All right. Stand there." Lucille moved where indicated immediately, which Vera appreciated more than charm.

The workroom occupied a practical corner of the station where fabric, webbing, heavy thread, broken fasteners and pieces of discarded equipment accumulated until somebody decided they could be made useful again. Vera's own table bore the evidence of several overlapping jobs: a torn mitten waiting for a new palm, a jacket with a replacement zip half basted into place, two lengths of insulated canvas, a tin holding buckles and clips, and a notebook in which she wrote measurements because memory became unreliable once six people had asked for six different things. She had been repairing clothing since childhood and professionally long enough to lose any reverence for garments simply because they were expensive. If a seam failed, it failed. If a pattern was wrong, the pattern was wrong. She regarded most equipment claims with the same skepticism she reserved for men who said they knew their own waist size.

Lucille stood in socks while Vera measured from shoulder to heel, then again from hip to floor, then from waist to the point where the existing brace attachment sat against the trousers. The numbers confirmed what the eye already knew. Lucille was not merely tall in the general, socially interesting sense. She was tall in ways that complicated systems built from proportional assumptions. Her legs accounted for more length than the standard pattern expected; her torso added another problem; her shoulders were broad enough that simply extending straps could shift pressure into the wrong place. Vera wrote everything down and asked Lucille to raise both arms. Lucille did. "Higher," Vera said, and Lucille lifted them farther. Vera stepped behind her, pinched the brace where it crossed between the shoulder blades and said, "Now sit." Lucille sat on the stool, and the braces tightened across her back at once. Vera made a small sound of disapproval. "Stand again." Lucille stood. "You do realize this is how livestock must feel at a county fair," she said. Vera replied that livestock generally objected more to the measuring tape.

Lucille smiled, but Vera did not stop working to acknowledge the effect. She had known beautiful women before and seen famous women at a distance; Lucille happened to be both. Beauty could be recognized without becoming a personal emergency. Vera saw the long face, the extraordinary height, the blond hair pulled back carelessly for the fitting, and understood perfectly well why other people stared. She also understood that the left brace was two inches too short once Lucille bent at the waist, which at that moment was more important. Vera had noticed several women around the station behaving with a degree of concentration around Lucille that rarely survived Lucille leaving the room. One technician had walked into a crate after watching her cross a loading area. Another had volunteered twice for an errand that did not require her. Vera had no moral opinion on any of it. She merely found it increasingly funny that the same woman who caused such disturbances elsewhere was now standing obediently while Vera marked webbing with chalk.

The sleeping bag proved less straightforward than adding a strip to the bottom. Vera spread it over the table and asked Lucille how she actually slept. Lucille said mostly on her side. Vera asked whether she curled her legs. Lucille said only when forced by the bag. Vera asked whether her feet pressed against the end. "Every night." Vera wanted to know whether she woke cold. Sometimes. Whether she had tried sleeping partly unzipped. Yes, and the draft was worse. Whether she was willing to have the foot section widened as well as lengthened. Lucille looked at the bag as though Vera had offered a philosophical proposition and finally said, "If you think it needs it." Vera said she did. Merely extending the bottom would give Lucille somewhere to put her feet while leaving them compressed laterally. The insulation would flatten, and a longer bag could still be a colder one. Lucille nodded and said, "That's exactly the sort of thing I wouldn't have known to ask." Vera replied that it was the sort of thing most people should not have to know to ask.

She chalked a line around the foot box and began unpicking the lower seam while Lucille remained nearby instead of disappearing. Vera had expected that. People often stayed when the equipment concerned their own comfort, especially when the alteration looked more alarming halfway through than before it began. Lucille watched the bag open along one edge and asked whether Vera minded people hovering. Vera said hovering was acceptable if it did not involve suggestions. Lucille promised not to suggest anything. She kept the promise for almost four minutes before asking whether a piece of discarded insulated fabric on the shelf could be used for the extension. Vera looked at her. Lucille said, "That was a question, not a suggestion." Vera told her it was also the correct material, which meant she would allow it.

Conversation developed because the work took time and neither woman saw any reason to fill that time with artificial seriousness. Vera told Lucille she had been sewing since she was nine, first because her mother disliked wasted fabric and later because Vera disliked paying other people to do something she could do better. Her husband, Martin, had learned early not to discard clothing without permission because Vera regarded worn fabric as inventory. Lucille asked what he did with shirts beyond repair. Vera said he brought them to her and waited for judgment. "Does he ever appeal?" Lucille asked. Vera said appeals were permitted but rarely successful. Martin had once argued for a work shirt with both elbows gone and a collar separating from the body. Vera had cut it into cleaning cloths while he watched. Lucille observed that marriage required boundaries. Vera agreed.

Vera asked Lucille to put the trousers back on with the altered brace temporarily pinned in place. Lucille stepped behind a screen, changed, and returned wearing the heavy trousers over her indoor clothes. Vera shortened one side, lengthened another, then moved the rear crossing point lower. She told Lucille to sit. Lucille sat. "Stand." Lucille stood. "Raise your knee." Lucille raised it. "Other one." She complied. Vera told her to squat as far as she comfortably could. Lucille lowered herself, held the position and then said, "Still pulling on the right." Vera crouched behind her, two fingers hooked beneath the webbing without touching more than necessary, and felt the tension line. "Where?" Lucille reached back and indicated the point beside her waist. Vera shifted the attachment half an inch outward, repinned it and told her to try again. Lucille stood, bent, crouched and twisted. "Better. Not right." Vera said, "Good." Lucille glanced down at her. "Good?" Vera stood. "If you tell me it's fine because you're tired of standing up, I have to guess. If you tell me where it's wrong, I can fix it." Lucille said she had spent years being told not to make trouble over clothing. Vera answered, "Then whoever told you that wasn't responsible for repairing it.

The remark landed more heavily than Vera intended, though Lucille did not make anything ceremonial of it. She merely looked at the braces, then back at Vera and said, "That's fair." Vera returned to the table and removed the pins. She did not ask who had told Lucille to tolerate poor fit or how often. Those questions belonged to another kind of conversation. Here the answer was already physical: garments had been made for bodies unlike hers, and Lucille had learned the familiar discipline of adapting herself before asking the object to adapt. Vera saw the same habit in shorter women, broader women, men with thick thighs, men with narrow shoulders, people who had gained weight, lost it, been injured or simply failed to resemble whatever body an anonymous patternmaker had considered ordinary. Equipment was full of opinions about humanity. Vera's work consisted largely of correcting them.

She cut a new length of webbing and showed Lucille why she was replacing rather than extending the existing section. A second join would sit directly under the shoulder and become irritating beneath outer layers. Lucille ran her fingers over the proposed route and asked whether moving the rear crosspiece would make the braces slide. Vera said not if she widened the spacing slightly and changed the angle. Lucille watched her mark the line. "You enjoy this," she said. Vera did not deny it. Problems that could be measured appealed to her. A body stood in front of her. A garment failed that body in a specific way. The correction could be tested. Politics was rarely so cooperative. Lucille said, "You're the first woman here who has looked at me for twenty minutes and seemed increasingly interested in my shoulder-to-waist ratio." Vera replied, "That is because your shoulder-to-waist ratio is causing me work.

Lucille laughed hard enough to bend forward, and the temporary brace pulled again. Vera pointed at her immediately. "There. That's the movement." Lucille straightened, still laughing, and said she was pleased to be useful. Vera marked the strain point with chalk. She had begun to understand something else about Lucille during the visit: Lucille relaxed when there was no social interpretation available. Vera was not impressed by proximity, did not flirt, did not turn ordinary touch during fitting into charged contact and did not expect Lucille to notice her noticing. The absence seemed restful. Lucille could complain that something pinched without wondering whether complaint would be mistaken for intimacy. Vera could tell her to turn around and lift her arms without either of them pretending the instruction meant anything beyond cloth.

The amusement Vera felt toward other women's reactions surfaced only once, and even then indirectly. A young communications worker appeared at the workroom door carrying a spool of cable that belonged on the shelf outside. She saw Lucille standing in trousers with one brace hanging loose, forgot why she had come in and asked Vera whether she needed anything. Vera said no. The woman looked at Lucille, then at the cable in her own hands, remembered herself and left. Vera waited until the door closed before returning to the seam. Lucille said nothing for several seconds. Then she asked, "Does that happen often?" Vera threaded a needle and said, "To me? Never." Lucille gave her a look. Vera added, "To you, apparently enough that I've stopped thinking the station is unusually accident-prone." Lucille covered her eyes briefly with one hand. Vera, who felt neither jealousy nor fascination, enjoyed the reaction with the detached pleasure of someone seeing an old joke confirmed.

She sewed the new webbing in place with reinforced stitching, then had Lucille test it under a heavier outer layer because an alteration that worked in shirtsleeves could fail once insulated clothing changed the geometry. Lucille pulled on the jacket, fastened it and repeated the sequence: stand, sit, bend, crouch, raise one knee, then the other. The braces stayed flat. Vera asked about pressure across the shoulders. Lucille rolled them. None. At the waist? Better. Bending? Lucille leaned forward as if picking something from the floor, paused, then said the right side still tugged slightly. Vera sighed, not at Lucille but at the stubbornness of the problem, and unfastened the attachment again. "You could say it's good enough," Lucille offered. Vera said, "You could also sleep with your knees bent. Apparently we're both wasting our time." Lucille accepted the rebuke and resumed standing still.

The third adjustment worked. Vera moved the attachment point lower by less than an inch and added a short floating section that allowed the brace to shift when Lucille bent without loosening while she stood. This time Lucille crouched, turned, reached forward and then stood straight again without touching the straps. "That," she said, "is right." Vera made her repeat the movement twice anyway. Lucille did so with the patience of someone who understood that declaring victory prematurely would only bring her back tomorrow. Once satisfied, Vera trimmed the loose thread and told her she could change out of the trousers. Lucille disappeared behind the screen again. Vera turned to the sleeping bag.

The foot extension had taken shape while they talked. Vera had opened the lower panel, inserted a tapered section of matching insulated material and widened the base enough that Lucille's feet would not compress the fill. The work did not look elegant yet. Loose threads remained, and the interior lining hung open along one side while Vera checked the insulation distribution. When Lucille returned, Vera had her climb into the bag on the floor. Lucille lowered herself with some difficulty, zipped it and stretched flat. For the first time her feet did not visibly deform the end. Vera asked her to point her toes. Lucille did. To bend her knees. She did. To turn onto her side. Lucille rolled, taking much of the sleeping bag with her, and said, "I feel absurd." Vera said, "You are testing a bag on a workshop floor. You are absurd. The question is whether you're warm.

Lucille lay still for a moment and admitted that the difference was immediate. Her legs could straighten without pressure at the feet, and turning no longer pulled the upper section down around her shoulders. Vera crouched at the end, pressed the insulation and checked that the new panel was not bunching. She asked whether anything felt tight. Lucille said no. Anything loose? Only slightly around the ankles. Vera said that was deliberate. Lucille looked toward her from the floor and asked whether Vera ever got tired of being right. Vera answered that she expected the experience would become monotonous eventually, but it had not yet.

Lucille laughed again, and Vera decided tiredness had probably contributed because the line did not deserve quite that much. She helped Lucille sit up by offering an arm, then watched her struggle out of the bag with the gracelessness common to all people escaping sleeping equipment. Lucille finally emerged with hair loosened and sweater ridden halfway up her back. Vera thought, with no more sexual charge than she might have applied to a film actress, that Lucille was an extraordinarily beautiful woman. Then she noticed the sweater seam had twisted under one arm and told her to fix it before it stretched. Lucille pulled the fabric straight and said, "You really are immune." Vera looked at her. Lucille clarified, a little embarrassed by her own bluntness, that most women had some reaction, even if only self-consciousness. Vera considered the question and said, "You're beautiful. So is Ava Gardner. I wouldn't sleep with her either." Lucille blinked, then smiled. "That's wonderfully clear." Vera said she preferred clarity because it saved time.

There was no defensiveness in Lucille's response. If anything, she seemed pleased. Vera understood why after thinking about it. Beauty was often treated as a demand placed on the viewer, as though noticing it required desire, envy, intimidation or judgment. Vera felt none of those things. She liked Lucille's face. She liked the proportions of her body much less because they turned ordinary alterations into engineering. She liked her company increasingly. She had no wish to kiss her, undress her or discover whether proximity changed that assessment. Lucille appeared to find the lack of complication almost luxurious.

They took a short break while Vera heated water. Lucille sat at the end of the worktable drinking tea and examining the repaired mitten without touching it. Vera told her she could pick it up. Lucille said she had learned not to handle other people's work uninvited. Vera approved. They talked about nothing that would ever appear in Lucille's review: Martin's habit of leaving screws in trouser pockets, Glenda's capacity to ask questions in chains until an adult admitted ignorance, Vera's preference for hand sewing certain repairs even when a machine was faster, and Lucille's ongoing war with furniture built as though no human being had knees. The conversation was easy because neither woman required anything from the other beyond attention.

Vera returned to the sleeping bag and closed the inner lining with small, dense stitches. Lucille watched long enough to ask why the seam allowance faced away from the foot. Vera explained that repeated pressure from toes and boot socks could worry the raw edge over time. Lucille nodded. Vera added that if the repair failed, she wanted it to fail somewhere visible before insulation began leaking into the bag. Lucille said this sounded pessimistic. Vera said it was maintenance. Everything failed eventually. Good work merely arranged for failure to be inconvenient rather than catastrophic.

That sentence interested Lucille more than Vera expected. She repeated it quietly, then asked whether Vera minded if she borrowed the phrasing for the review. Vera said she could have it if she did not make it sound philosophical. Lucille promised. Vera doubted the promise but allowed it. It occurred to her that much of Lucille's work at McMurdo involved the same problem from another direction: policies, buildings and procedures had been designed around assumptions that held until they encountered the wrong body or the wrong circumstance. Vera dealt in seams and straps. Lucille dealt in systems. Both spent surprising amounts of time discovering where somebody else had assumed too much.

When the sleeping bag was finished, Vera rolled it tightly, secured the straps and set it beside Lucille's chair. The trouser braces followed. Vera checked the stitching one final time, trimmed a thread, then folded the trousers in half. Lucille stood, gathered the bag and reached for the trousers. Vera stopped her. "Wait." She took them back, opened the waistband and reached inside near the right hip. Lucille watched as Vera turned out a narrow rectangle of fabric no larger than two fingers wide, stitched discreetly into the lining. It had not been there before.

Lucille looked at it, then at Vera. "What's that?" Vera said, "A pocket." Lucille observed that the trousers already had pockets. Vera said, "Those are apparently decorative, because every time you bend over, your pencil falls out of one." Lucille opened her mouth, closed it, then looked down at the little internal sleeve again. Vera had noticed the pencil during the fittings: once on the floor near the stool, once beneath the cutting table, and once caught improbably in the fold of the sleeping bag. The new pocket sat high enough inside the waistband that a short pencil could slide into it and remain vertical when Lucille crouched. "It'll hold one pencil," Vera said. "Not a notebook, not three pens, not half your desk. One pencil. If you overload it, I take no responsibility.

Lucille put the sleeping bag down, reached into her sweater pocket and produced the same pencil she had dropped twice that afternoon. She slid it into Vera's hidden pocket, bent forward, crouched, stood again and checked. The pencil remained exactly where Vera had put it. For several seconds Lucille simply looked delighted. Then she said, "This may be the most personally useful reform accomplished during my entire visit." Vera told her not to put that in the report. Lucille promised nothing. She folded the trousers again, tucked them beneath one arm and lifted the sleeping bag with the other. At the doorway she thanked Vera for the alterations, paused, and added, "And for treating me like a tailoring problem." Vera replied that Lucille was welcome and that, from a tailoring perspective, she remained a substantial one. Lucille ducked beneath the frame and left laughing, the pencil still secure where Vera had designed it to stay.